Periera, Colombia



Street musicians in Pereira

March 24-25, 2014 

I left my home in Salento and said goodby to all my new friends. Lucas even walked me to the bus station one last time. Yes, I had tears in my eyes....this was my home. I was sad to be leaving but it was time for the final portion of my journey. I took the bus to Pereira and was met by Julio for a day of sightseeing. Julio is a friend of Jeff's from Brunch. He is starting a new tour guide service and I was his guinea pig. Lucky for me, I was getting to experience the local perspective. Pereira is skipped by most travelers. Typically, it is a place to get a bus north to Medellin or on their way to Salento. It is a shame because it is a beautiful little city. Julio took me to the hostel, Kolibri, to check in and leave my bags. I love Hostal Kolibri, I had stayed here on my way to Medellin so, returning felt like being back at home. And, I knew they had Jeff's (from Brunch in Salento) peanut butter brownies! My last chance before heading south.

Julio has lived his entire life in Pereira and I was excited to see what he was going to show me. He drove us to the Mirador where he ordered me a small coffee. Julio handed it to me and asked my opinion of the coffee. Wheeeew! I chuckled and said it was awful! Very bitter. He laughed and asked me to point out the espresso machine. There wasn't one. He smiled and asked what that meant to me. No! Seriously? They could not be serving instant coffee. Not in Colombia! Surrounded by beautiful coffee farms!! But he smiled and nodded. They were serving instant coffee! This was a lesson Julio had wanted to teach me, always look for the espresso machine and a grinder. If I am really lucky, the cafe will freshly roast the beans for the day. He promised to take me to his favorite coffee shop the next day. I was holding him to that promise. We walked along the fence looking out over the coffee farms and the cities of Pereira, Dos Quebradas and Santa Rosa De Cabel. The farmland was beautiful. I swear Colombia has 12 shades of green.

Afterwards, we went to the town of Santa Rosa de Cabal. It has a nice town square and old church. As with all town squares in Colombia, this is the center for social activity. I love the little cars that children are pushed around the park.

Julio offered to take me to the thermals but I did not have my swimsuit and nudity is frowned upon there. Luckily, I had made the trip while I had been staying in Salento. It was fabulous! I wish I had grabbed my swimsuit for an afternoon of relaxation but I didn't. Oops! As we drove through the town, I noticed all of the sausage stores. Julio forewarned me to stick with the sausages in these small villages and the countryside but to stay away from them in Bogota. It seems everyone has horror stories of a bad Bogota street sausage and hours spent praising the porcelain God (toilet). That was not something I wanted to experience!!

Next, we stopped at Bonita Finca (Beautiful Farm). As we pulled into the driveway, I saw a sign with a nasty looking snake. Noooooooo! I hate snakes! I had a million questions about the damn snakes. They assured me I was not going to be bit and I would be safe. I knew that meant they had found these snakes on the farm. I was assured repeatedly it would be fine so, I faced my fear and hiked onto the reserve. The farm was an ecological coffee farm but was also a butterfly farm and an ecological preserve. We headed off with our guide to the butterfly house. Our guide explained the importance of butterflies and their life cycles. They were beautiful.

And where there are butterflies there are caterpillars. So many beautiful colors!

Next we headed up the trail. Our guide had worked in the Amazon as a biologist and was quick to point out plants and survival techniques. The leaves of this plant could be used as an umbrella or to collect water to drink. 

We walked through the paths along the fields of bamboo and guadua (larger than bamboo with thorns). Our guide explained pointed out survival techniques "in case" I was ever lost. I hoped that I would not need any of them but I made a mental note to remember the water in bamboo and guadua was safe to drink. 

The landscape was tranquil with a small river. Our guide pointed out the fresh water crabs and nests of the Barranquilla (bird). As we climbed up the hill we passed beautiful flowers. It was a paradise, even a tree that looked like a giraffe. The most interesting sight was these bright pink plants. I did not realize they were pink bananas until he opened them and gave me a bite to eat!

When we reached his laboratory, he pointed out a large iguana living in a papaya tree. The sucker was huge! He was a smart guy, he blended very well!

Then he showed us tarantulas and snakes that were found on the farm.

 

Give me a spider any day over any snake. Yikes! He laughed as I moved as far back as possible. I looked on but it freaked me. I realized I was in their territory and do not want to find one on the hike back to our car. Before we left, our guide grabbed a white cake box as we left. I asked if it had a snake in it and he told me "No, a special surprise for you!" Hmmmmm. What could it be?

Afterward, we took a different path back to the entrance. Vines grew over the path and made a canopy from the rain. I never realized how beautiful the jungle was in the rain. The large leafs protected us as we continued along the path. I didn't get too wet.

When we returned to the entrance, the guide handed me the box and told me it was filled with butterflies that needed to be released. Most of them only had two days to live. It was my job to release them. They did not want to leave the box. It was hard to get them to fly away and be free. But finally....they spread their wings and fluttered away.

What a beautiful reminder of the beauty of nature and how precious life is. Live every day as it was your last, no regrets! 

Julio took me back to the hostel and told me he would pick me up at 8am. I was exhausted and took a shower then collapsed for a short nap. Afterwards, I walked the area before dinner then returned and read before bed. 

I awoke in the morning, made breakfast and coffee and was ready for Julio when he arrived. We put my backpack in his car and went for a morning coffee at his favorite cafe. As we were waiting to cross the street, I saw a familiar face. It was our friend Jeff from Salento! He was standing on the corner appreciating a Colombian beauty! We said hello and asked him to join us for coffee. I smelled the cafe before we arrived! They were roasting coffee. Fresh roasted coffee. I love that smell. If you have never experienced this joy, you don't know what you are missing! Then they ground it for your individual order and brewed it up. I was in heaven. All coffee should taste like this! It really starts a day right! As we sat enjoying the brew, Julio's shoe shine guy arrived and he got spiffed up for his day.

Julio, Jeff and I discussed the plan for the day. Next, I was having an hour massage  with a healer for $15!!! OMG! Katrina was amazing! Her hands were hot as they massaged my body. I relaxed and enjoyed every minute. She rubbed my tight and sore muscles from hiking the hills of Salento. But the best part was the end when she soaked my feet in hot water and massaged them. She knew what she was doing and it was heavenly! Afterwards, she and I walked back to the cafe to meet Jeff and Julio for a second cup of coffee.

We left the coffee shop and walked towards the town center. Our first stop was the cathedral. I looked up and noticed there were men doing repair work. Nothing but a thick rope to hold them up. I was glad that was not my job! Yikes!


Julio explained that the cathedral had survived an earthquake and the outside was repaired. After the earthquake, the frescos from the interior fell and revealed the scaffolding of the old cathedral. The cathedral has remained exposed. I liked the simplicity and the beautiful bare bones that remained of the cathedral. I would not want to cover up that workmanship either.

We walked around town as Julio explained the sights. We walked to the main square with the most impressive Simon Bolivar statue I had seen in my travels of Colombia. 

Yes, that is Simon Bolivar naked on a naked horse (no saddle) and riding a wave! I have a theory that the size of a Simon Bolivar statue demonstrates the amount of money a city has. From least amount of money a town money gets a Bolivar bust, standing Simon Bolivar, standing with sword, Bolivar on a horse and Bolivar naked on a horse on a wave. Julio laughed as I told him this. He said that may be true but it also has to do with his importance to the city. Pereira is a capital and must have a more impressive statue. Yes, this was an impressive statue!

Julio, Jeff and I walked the streets past vendors and tried churros, fruits and plantains. So delicious! The we walked through the park that use to be covered with drug dealers in the 80's and 90's. Today they are gone and the park is enjoyed by citizens and tourists. As we walked, Jeff asked where Julio bought his hat. Julio is a collector of hats and took us to his favorite hat store.

Everything was hand made in Colombia. The workmanship was beautiful. I decided I was Colombian and bought a handmade hat.   Just like the Colombian women! I think my head is a little big for it but it will look great with my fancy pants for a night out! 

Afterwards we went for a vegetarian meal. Wow! I met my first vegetarian Colombian. They love their meat like Argentinans. I asked Julio when he had decided to become vegetarian. He explained he did it for health reasons a few years ago and family members are still concerned he doesn't get enough protein. I laughed as he told stories about bar-b-ques with friends and family. The meal was fantastic. I must admit, I love the fresh juices in Colombia. Today's was a raspberry ginger. So refreshing! 

Afterwards we decided to go back to his place for a siesta and to wait to see if Julio's girlfriend could come with us to the auction in Buga. The nap was fantastic as I curled up in his guest room with a stuffed cow! I love siestas! I definitely should live in a country where they are the norm.

An hour and a half later, Julio's girlfriend told us she had to work and was not able to go to Buga with us. The three of us piled into the car and headed south towards Buga. It was a beautiful drive through fields of maiz and sugar cane. We were driving through beautiful green plains. I noticed this sight. Not something you see in the states. 

It was sugar cane trailers. I was a little concerned for the man that stands on top. Not a job I would want! 

We arrived in Buga and Julio dropped Jeff and I off at the Buga hostel. It is famous for two things....the best sourdough pizza in Colombia and microbrew! Mmmm! After checking in to my room, I met Jeff on the patio for a pizza and beer. I had the margarita pizza and a ginger honey beer. Ohhhhh! How I have missed a good craft beer. 

As we sat enjoying our dinner we talked to a few others and a couple from the UK decided to join us to watch Julio auction cattle.

We arrived at the auction and Julio was warmed up and going full throttle in Spanish. I did not understand any of it. But I loved the experience. This was a real part of Colombia life.

Julio was fantastic! I had no clue how much people were bidding for the cattle, my Spanish is very slow and elementary. As we walked in, many of the Colombians turned to stare and I know all of them were wondering "What are the gringos doing here?"

A gentleman went and got us chairs to sit and then everyone moved a little closer to us. The way they looked at us with interest and inquisitiveness I think they were hoping to bid on us! I got up and walked around to get a few photos.

I met the gentleman that makes cattle brands. He showed me a book with his work. Then he asked what I was doing in Colombia. I explained I was traveling the world and we talked about my travels and my education. He told me to wait where I was standing. He returned with his 2 daughters and explained to him the importance of staying in school and going to college. If they did that then they can travel the world. Wow! Talk about being humbled! He wanted me to tell them about the USA and my travels. The girls were impressed and wanted to see China and swim with sea tutles. They promised me they would stay in school. Wow! Afterwards, the father told me many girls get pregnant and never finish school. He wanted his daughters to see the possibilities of an education. It is humbling when I am faced with how blessed I have been. I hope these girls and their fathers dreams come true. 

 

I returned to my group and watched the end of the auction. It was a great night and I enjoyed seeing this side of the Colombian culture. I had a fantastic 2 days with Julio and enjoyed all of the insight he provided about his country. Julio is fun loving and full of information. I was grateful that he had shared his friends and life with me.

I said goodby to Jeff and Julio and thanked them for the past 2 wonderful days. Then, I retuned to the hostel for a mango beer before bed. I was ready to spend a few days exploring Buga.