Cambodia- Phnom Penh and Siem Reap

We arrived in Phnom Penh and were lucky to meet a taxi driver with an extensive history of Cambodia. As we talked to him, we decided he could teach us about the Khmer people and  drive us to the killing fields. It was hot and we decided the cost was reasonable for an entire day. So, we dropped our luggage at the hotel and we asked for a restaurant where we could have khmer food. His suggestion was fabulous! We had a lunch of fresh spring rolls and fish amok. My friend Christy had raved about the fish amok and it was as delicious and beautiful as she had described. Fish amok is a coconut curry steamed in banana leaves and considered by many to be the national dish of Cambodia.

Yummy! Fish Amok and steamed vegetables.

It was so flavorful and delicious that we have decided to take a cooking class to learn how to make it. After we finished lunch, Mr Sowana returned to pick us up and drive us 30 minutes through the capital to the killing fields.

Walking in to the killing fields, I was ignorant about the history of Cambodia.  We listened to the audio tour as we walked the site. In 1975, Khmer Rouge leader Pol Pot forced the urban populations to the rural areas to work in agriculture labor camps. Members of the upper, middle and educated classes were all victims of the genocide. Three million people were executed by the Khmer Rouge in 3 years, 8 months and 20 days.  Crimes punishable by death included not working hard enough, complaining about living conditions, stealing food for personal consumption, wearing jewelry, grieving over the loss of relatives or friends and expressing religious sentiments. He killed men, women and children to ensure an entire family was executed and the children could not come back for revenge. It is difficult to describe the Killing Fields because it is difficult to understand how anyone could have committed the atrocities that occurred in Cambodia. We toured the killing fields and listened to the stories of survivors. It was an emotional day and broke my heart. The most difficult sight was where babies and children were killed. It brought tears to my eyes.

Friendship bracelets at the site where children were killed

As you walk into the sight it is quiet and serene. The land is pocked with pits where bodies were buried. If people were not dead they sprayed them with DDT or buried them alive. As I wandered the site, I saw scraps of clothing, pieces of bone and teeth in the dirt. We walked the path around the lake and observed that life went on for the Khmer people. There are families fishing in the lake and children playing. It is a healing place for the Cambodians. In the center is the memorial where the bones and skulls found at the sight are housed.  It is a touching memorial to those that were killed and a reminder to never allow this to happen again.

The memorial surrounded by the killing fields. The land is sunken where bodies were buried.

From there, we returned to Phnom Penh and toured the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum where the people were held and tortured at the S-21 Prison before being taken to the killing fields. It was originally a school with laughing and happy children. It was very sad that the school had been converted to the S-21 prison and the sight of so many horrendous acts. The museum displays the photos of the individuals that were tortured here. Only 7 people survived the S-21 prison. One of the survivors was present to answer questions. It was a sad visit but necessary to understand the history of this nation. The Khmer people have persevered and rebuilt their country. Today I am in awe of the beauty, hospitality, kindness and respectful people I have met on my journey.  My heart holds a special place for the people of Cambodia.

We went back to town, bought our bus tickets for Siem Reap the following day and then went for a walk around town. We had a light meal at a café and then back to our hotel to cool off, shower and go to bed.

King's Palace in Phnom Penh

The following morning we had planned to go to the King’s Palace and see the Silver Pagoda but the King was home and it was closed. We wandered the city and toured the Pagoda then we caught the bus to Siem Reap. We were happy to have seats on the bus after all, it was a 6 hour journey. We were on the top level behind the steps. We noticed the windshield was cracked and covered with packaging tape. Really? Hmm, I wondered why. Then, nightfall came and the bus trip got a little more eventful. We felt the driver stomp on the brakes. Fara and I flew forward towards the bar separating us from the steps. The horn was honking. A cow decided to walk in front of the bus! Luckily we stopped before we hit it. No wonder why the windshield was broken. We were fine but a little shaken up. The journey continued and a half hour later the honking started again. A tuk-tuk was in the rode and the bus driver was not stopping for it. Another close call but everyone was safe. We continued another 30 minutes before honking and screeching of brakes. Fara and I grabbed each other’s hand. We flew forward again as we saw another cow standing in front of the bus. I was waiting to fly face first over the edge and onto the stairs and people sitting on the stairs. It was going to hurt! Luckily we dodged the second cow and were fine. I wanted a seatbelt! Anything to keep me from flying out of my seat and through the bus.  I decided then that all future seats will be a few rows back so I will have a seat to stop me from flying through the air. We finally arrived in Seim Reap and found our tuk-tuk driver the guesthouse sent to pick us up. We arrived at the charming Rosy’s Guesthouse lit in candlelight. We knew what that meant…no electricity. We checked in and were given candles for our room. It was pretty but very hot and sticky. Luckily, the electricity was on by 11:30pm so we had a good nights sleep.

The next morning, we awoke and left at 5:30 AM for sunrise at Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat...breathtaking!

Angkor is the earthly representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. It is believed to be the world’s largest religious building.  We grabbed a coffee at the entrance and walked in with the hundreds of other tourists and awaited the morning sun. The lily pads opened as the sun came over the temple. It was surreal being here. Angkor Wat has been on my bucketlist for years. To be sitting here with my best friend and hundreds of tourists was surreal. Everyone was awaiting the morning light to shine down on the temples.
After sunrise, Fara and I went to explore the area. We wandered through the temples and down quiet hallways. Stopped and lit a candle. It was amazing that we were free to wander the area freely. We climbed the steps of a temple and found a quiet spot to reflect and watch the other tourists. We watched as monkeys entertained tourists. I grabbed my camera and walked towards the monkeys and was quickly approached by a little one that thought I was going to feed it. I have encountered monkeys in the wild before, I know they cant be trusted. This is an old photo from that experience.

2001 at Gibraltar, my first surprise monkey encounter. Yikes!

 I did not know this guys was going to climb up my back and I was a little terrified of his big teeth...and the thought of rabies!! So, I was careful with the monkeys. Cute, yes. But, I didn't want to be a monkey jungle gym! I decided it was time to back off. Let these little guys entertain the tourists.




We were astonished at the beauty of the old temples. But we moved on as we were quickly asked by each of the locals to “buy from my shop” or “eat at my restaurant.”  We quickly decided to move on to Bayon, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm temples.  Each was different but had some similarities. The following day, we spent the morning exploring the lesser known temples of Preah Khan, Prasat Prei, Prasat Krol Ko, Ta Som, Mebon Oriental and Pre Rup. After 2 days we were "templed out" and needed to relax in town. 

King faces on the bridge entering Angkor Thom

Elephant gate in Angkor Thom

Fara and Mik - Tomb Raiders...just like Lara Croft. Same same but better!

 The afternoon sun burned down on us and we were wet pools of sweat, it was time for happy hour and food. Then a walk around the charming town of Seim Reap and a nap back at the guesthouse. Luckily we stopped to talk to the girls at the guesthouse about the bus schedule to Saigon. We have had such a great time we lost track of days! We thought we were in Siem Reap until Thursday. Unfortunately, we are checking out tomorrow. We have rescheduled our cooking class to Wednesday and made bus arrangements for Wednesday night. I have loved my trip to Cambodia and highly recommend anyone to put this on your bucket list. It has been a highlight of my trip.

Peace and love to you all! Goodnight from Cambodia.