Biking Inle Lake

The Inle Lake area is serene. One day was not enough for me so, I decided to rent a bike and explore the surrounding areas. I was particularly interested in visiting the hot springs and the Red Mountain Estates Vineyard. But visiting Inle Lake is also about meeting the locals and understanding how the rural people live their daily lives. That is so much easier when I travel independently.

The area surrounding Inle Lake is relatively flat and good for biking. The Teakwood Inn offered bikes for rent ($1.65) and provided a map of the area. At breakfast, I talked to a woman, Serica, and we were both interested in biking the area so we decided to do it together. We had been told there was a local festival at the pagoda west of town so, we started in that direction. As we left town, we cycled down a rocky road with many locals dressed up for the celebration. We followed the crowd and arrived at the pagoda 30 minutes later. We paid a guy to watch over our bikes and climbed the steps to join in the festivities.

Many of the locals looked shocked to see foreigners in attendance. We were welcomed by the people and it was fun to attend a local celebration. The grounds of the temple were full of people selling foods, music, videos, fireworks and gifts for Buddha.

In the temple, boys and monks were walking around the parameter with lay people giving offerings. The temple grounds were a flurry of activity. We heard drums beating and singing coming up the hill. A group of men were clapping, singing and dancing towards the temple. They were carrying a large money tree towards the temple. Everyone clapped to the beat as the procession surrounded the temple. The men were followed by young girls bringing gifts (flowers and cash) to the temple. 
We joined in the celebration clapping to the music and watching the activities.  After a while, I was hot and the afternoon sun was getting stronger. We eventually decided it was time to continue on our bike ride. We returned to the bottom of the hill and jumped on the bikes towards our next stop, the hot springs.

The hot springs were not what I had expected. I thought it would be more natural. The area was surrounded by farmland and woman working in the fields. It was relaxing and peaceful. There were three pools surrounded by tables and lounge chairs. We were given towels, soap, shampoo and a locker as we entered the women's restrooms. Serica and I had the hot springs to ourselves. We figured everyone else was too hot to sit in hot water in the afternoon.  It cost $8 and felt good even in the summer heat. We relaxed in the warm pools and then had lunch.

After lunch, my stomach started cramp and I was not feeling well. I told Serica and she said she was tired and would like to go back to Nyaungshwe. I agreed and when we left to get on our bikes she mentioned that the easiest and quickest way back would be hiring a boat at the next village. Typically the route continues a short distance to Kuang Daing village and then you hire a boat across the lake to Maing Thauk village and back up to Nyaungshwe. A man noticed us discussing our plan and asked if we needed a boat across the lake. We explained we wanted to go back to Nyaungshwe and he agreed. He told us to follow him to his boat. He was on a motorcycle and we followed. At one point he was driving very slowly. I pulled up behind him and yelled out beep-beep. He turned and looked at me and laughed. He realized he could go a little faster. We entered the small village and he grabbed a container of fuel and told us to follow. He started down a path that was too narrow for us to ride our bikes. It was up and over a bamboo bridge, down a muddy hill, across a porch and down a couple of steps. Then we had to wander through waist deep grass to the lake. We finally arrived at five boats. He got in and I handed him my bike. He carried it from boat to boat until he got to the 5th boat. Then he returned to get Serica's bike. I lifted it and felt the boggy ground give way. I started sinking into the mud. I decided to jump on the boat. As I crawled onto the boat my other leg sunk into the mud. I was knee deep in mud. The man looked at me and said "No, don't step there! Very muddy!" I laughed as I pulled my leg hard and hoped my sandal would stay on my foot. Luckily it did! I stood there with mud all the way to my ankle. The young man was horrified and told me to stay still. I told him not to worry and lifted my leg to put it in the lake water on the other side of the boat. He said no and grabbed a bucket of water to wash off my foot. He was so sweet and cleaned my foot off. I just laughed and told him it was fine.    

We were loaded on the boat and on our way back to our hotel. I was not feeling well and was ready to get back. The boat ride was quick and the young man motioned to get our cameras ready. I looked over the bow of the boat. There was a fisherman rowing his boat. I had another chance to photograph the fisherman of Inle Lake.

We returned to the boat dock in Nyaungshwe and the young man helped us carry our bikes to the shore. It was a good day but I was feeling sicker by the moment. I went back to my hotel and asked about travel plans to Mandalay. I had planned to leave the next day on the bus. I was surprised to find out that the bus ride was an overnight trip. Since I wasn't feeling well, the woman suggested I consider flying to Mandalay. When she told me the price was less than $50 and I would be there in an hour, I told her to book the ticket. I went to bed and gave up on seeing the winery. I was sad but did not feel well. I went to bed early and rested.

I woke up in the morning and felt really good. Since the taxi was picking me up at 1:30 PM, I decided to rent a bike and finish the eastern side of Inle Lake. I headed out of town in the morning and passed the winery. I followed dirt paths to see where they led. As I explored the area, I passed farm land and the people going about their daily activities. A man was on his way to the fields with his oxen cart, a boy walking cattle, children playing and swimming in the canals.

As I cycled through towns, I passed women doing their laundry and hanging it out to dry. At 10:00 AM, I headed to the Red Mountain Estates Vineyard. The winery sits on the top of a steep hill. I realized the hill was too steep for me and I was going to have to walk to the top. Since it would be a fun ride down, I pushed the bike to the top. Wine! I knew my stomach had issues the last 2 days but I decided the wine may kill off anything that was wrong. Maybe not the best idea but I missed wine. The view from the view from the winery was nice. Too bad it wasn't sunset. I sat down by the window and ordered a tasting and a fruit plate with grilled chicken. I relaxed and enjoyed the view and my wine tasting for $2.50. The wine was better than I had expected. I was happy and had a good day. I looked at my watch and knew I needed to cycle back to my guesthouse. It was a short 20 minute ride back to Nyaungshwe. I was happy to have finished my bike ride of Inle Lake. I had time to change my shirt and wash my face. Then, the taxi arrived and I was off to the airport for a quick flight to Mandalay.