Temples, Volcanos and Rice Terraces of Bali

 

A typical Balinese street view.

If you have been following my blog, you know I am not a fan of organized tours. I will do anything to avoid them. In Bali, I hired a driver, Made (www.adityabalitour.com), to take me to the volcano and to show me his country. I was excited because he loved to share the culture, religious beliefs and would answer the millions of questions I had for him. He was also very courteous and professional. When he came to pick me up, he asked what I had done the previous 2 days and I told him I have been to Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi on my scooter. He was shocked and impressed that I did that on my own. He and Marie called me brave and fearless. Ha ha! I never consider solo travel that extraordinary. I guess it comes from being single for so many years and doing everything on my own. Mr. Made told me he had planned to stop at both these sights. I was excited and asked if we could keep Tirta Empul on the schedule. I could go in the waters! I ran to grab a change of clothes before we left.

I liked this carving,  jazz hands!

Our first stop was the Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) sanctuary. I put on my sarong and sash and entered the area. This is not a natural cave. It was a solid rock carved by believers years ago. The holy men would clean themselves in the holy fountains before entering the cave to meditate for enlightenment. This cave was built in honor of Goa Gajah, the God of wisdom, prosperity and good luck.

Goa Gajah cave entrance

I entered the cave through the mouth and took a quick look around. It was dark and smelly from rotting offerings. Not someplace I wanted to spend much time meditating! The surrounding gardens were lush and peaceful. I decided to hike the area and explore the gardens. There were carvings in the rocks as I continued along the paths. I walked until I came to a path where a man wanted money to walk down towards the river. I decided to return back to meet Made.

 

 

I met back with Made and we headed north to an organic farm. I had told Made I loved healthy eating and he asked if I would like to see one of the organic family farms on our trip. Of course! We stopped and walked through the gardens and then I was shown how they roast the coffee. Bali also has a special coffee, kopi luwak. The Asian palm civet lives on the farm (cage free) and selects only the best coffee beans to eat. The beans are then excreted and collected, cleaned and roasted to make the kopi luwak. It is believed the fermentation process that occurs in the civet's digestive system improves the flavor of the coffee bean. 

Kopi Luwak beans after cleaning and roasting.

Made asked if I would like a free sample of the farms coffee and teas. Sure, I was game and I really wanted to see if there was a difference in the taste of the coffee. Yep, I was trying that cevit poop coffee! They brought me a tray of samples and a plate of local fruits (including snakeskin fruit). Yummy!

I must admit, the kopi luwak coffee tasted better than the regular coffee. But my favorites were the ginger coffee and the lemongrass tea. I bought a small bag of each for my travels.

 

Our next stop was Tirta Empul, the holy spring. I had visited before so, I knew where I was going. I left my bag with Made and just took a change of clothes and my iphone for photos. I entered the temple and walked towards the changing room to rent a locker. I got a key and entered. I was a little surprised when I entered to see men and women all together in different stages of changing their clothes. Hmmmm....well, when in Rome do as the Romans. What else could I do? I changed into my swimsuit and wrapped a sarong around my waist. Then I tied a shawl over my shoulders. As I left the changing room an older lady grabbed my hand and smiled. She pulled me along to the entrance of the temple and the water baths. She was excited she had found a tourist to show the way. I passed the priests and gave an offering.

Then I continued to the pool. I asked a tourist if she would take a couple photos for me and gave her my iphone. As I entered the water, I noticed large coy fish swimming in the pool. I giggled as I thought of my sister who would have freaked out being in a pool of water with fish. The water was cool and the bottom was covered with worn stones. I waited my turn and followed in step with the Balinese. I bowed my head to pray Balinese-style: gave thanks to emptiness, the sun, creation, offer blessings to the world and then thanks to emptiness once again. I stepped towards the first of 12 fountains and murmur a gratitude blessing and dunk my head under the fountain three times. The woman smiled at me and grabs my hand to pull me along. Made had explained that each of the fountains has a different significance, providing things like protection from evil spirits, blessings for fertility (no tahnk you!), wealth and blessings for the dead. He told me to follow the locals but not to dip my head in the fountain for the dead. I was glad he told me this. He told me it would be the fountain the locals skipped and it would not have any offerings on it. The fountain of the dead is used to wash the bones of the deceased prior to cremation.

 

Tirta Empul



I quietly watched the locals and followed their lead. Although this is the most spiritual sight in Bali, I was amazed how the locals chatted and laughed as they went through the process. I whispered my blessing at each spout as I went along. I don't know whether the water will cleanse or uplift me. I only know that I felt alive in the moment and thankful. I returned to the locker room, changed my clothes and returned to Made.

 

We continued our drive up to the Mount Batur. The view of the active volcano was beautiful and impressive. I walked around the area and shot a few photos. Then we headed south to the rice terraces.

As we continued our drive, I notice all of the cars and scooters had offerings on them. I had not noticed this in previous days. Made explained it was Tumpek Landep, a day the Balinese celebrate all things mechanical. Offerings are placed on cars and scooters because the Balinese believe that everything they have comes from the gods. Offering are made to thank the gods for blessing them with the ability to make things that help them in their daily lives. We passed women with offerings on their way to the temple.

 

I am in awe of the gracefulness of the Balinese women. They walk with offerings and water jugs balanced on their heads. Talking and gossiping with their friends. I will never tire of this sight. Made told me the children learn to do this in their youth. He pointed out a woman riding on the back of a motorcycle with the offering balanced on her head. Amazing!

 

We arrived at the Tegallalang rice terraces. They were beautiful. I will never tire of the shades of green and the serenity of rice paddies.

 

 

Made joined me as we walked down to the bottom. He was telling me about the naming system in Bali. In his class, all children are named Wayan, Made, Nygoman and Ketut. In this order for a boy or a girl. On child 5, you start back at Wayan. It makes it easy to know the birth order but confusing when everyone's names are Wayan or Made. I asked him how that is handled in school. Made told me the have nick names also. I laughed as I told him my name would be Made also.

Made (left) and a farmer (Wayan) that we met while hiking.

At the end of the day we passed through the stone carving and wood carving areas. I asked if we could stop so I could look at a store. The wood carvings were beautiful. I loved several pieces but passed due to my budget. I had a wonderful day with Made and learned a great deal about Balinese life. I said my goodbyes to Made and arranged for him to pick me up in a few days to drive me to Amed. He smiled and waved goodbye.

Bali- My Own Journey

When I told friends and family I was going to Bali, I was asked if I was going to look for love like Elizabeth Gilbert in Eat,Pray, Love. I am the first to admit I loved the book and movie. But no, I came to Bali to experience the culture and to relax. As most of you realize, I am happiest when I get to interact with locals and experience the culture of a country. I search for educational opportunities and those that challenge my comfort zone.

Most people think of beaches, surfing and parties when they think of Bali. But, I knew Kuta was not my scene. I enjoy a nice cold beer or cocktail  but not the wild parties. I was going to Ubud for yoga, relaxing and healthy eating. I was prepared to try it all. I chose a room with the winderful Marie Bee (www.airbnb.com) in the village of Sayan on the west side of Ubud. Marie was fantastic! She has lived in Ubud for years and has contacts in the community. If you want to see or do something, she will tell you how to do it. She sent Made (www.adityabalitour.com) to pick me up at the airport. Made and I bonded quickly on the 1.5 hour trip to Marie Bee's room. He explained the beliefs, ceremonies and culture of the Balinese people. I was excited when he told me I had arrived during cremation season. What? I knew the Balinese were Hindu whereas the remainder of Indonesia is Muslim. And I knew the Hindu religion cremates when someone passes away. But I was not aware there was a season to cremate those that had passed away. Made explained to me the rich people will cremate their loved ones after they pass away. However, due to the costs of a cremation the majority of the people will bury their loved ones for 3-5 years and then the entire village has a mass cremation to burn the bones of loved ones. This allows the people to save their money to pay for the cremation. I was intrigued and wanted to see a cremation while I was in Bali. Made told me to ask Marie and ask around town. I made a mental note to ask Marie about a cremation service. Made shared his experiences, knowledge and love of his country as we talked. He even offered to stop and help me get a SIM card for my cell phone! When we arrived at Marie Bee's, Made carried my bag in and introduced me to her staff (Nygoman and Tini). They welcomed me and showed me around the house then took me to my scooter I had rented ($5/day). Yes! Back on a scooter and we all know how much I love that! It was late afternoon and I knew I should get something to eat before it was too late. I hate driving at night in a new town. So, Tini and Nygoman offered to take me to a restaurant on their way home. I followed behind trying to remember how to get back to Marie Bee's. We weaved around corners and up hills then back down. They stopped at what would become my favorite restaurant, Alchemy. I walked in and was in heaven...I saw a fresh smoothie bar and a nice salad bar. Just what I wanted. I ate quickly so I could find my way back to Marie Bee's before it was dark. I got lost a few times and stopped and asked directions. I got back home and went to bed.

In the morning, I met Marie and she gave me directions to see a few sights. I needed to run some errands & then started her suggested motorbike ride. Unfortunately, I got lost several times. Bali maps are poor and the roads are not marked. I enjoyed riding around the back roads, while the people worked the rice fields. I realized it was late afternoon and I headed back to Ubud. I enjoyed the freedom to explore on my own.

The next morning I awoke and left early to see the sights Marie had suggested. As I left on my journey, my first stop was to purchase offerings for the temples. I found a warung on the corner and asked for 3 offerings.

Then I headed through Ubud and north towards my destinations. It was easier because I was getting more comfortable on the scooter and I had an idea where I was going. My first stop was to find the men making bulls for the cremation services. I asked if I may take photos and he was proud to show me his work. I watched as he crafted the tail by braiding palm tree leaves and wrapped it with newspaper. He showed me the bull was made from dried coconut shells, which burn quickly. He told me it takes him a week to build one bull. I was surprised he was so fast and did a beautiful job. I asked the gentleman if there were any cremation services in nearby villages. He gave me a list of days and villages. I thanked him and continued on my way. I realized my 5 days in Ubud was going to be longer since I wanted to see a cremation.

My next stop was Kampung Café for an early lunch and a fruit smoothie. The café has a beautiful view of rice terraces and is very relaxing. After my lunch I continued through the countryside. I stopped along the way at a local temple. Women were entering with offerings. Marie lent me a sarong and sash to wear at the temples. As soon as I put it on a young girl walked over and said hello. She invited me to take my offering in with her. I am fascinated by the beauty of the temples. The orange and gray colors are beautiful surrounded by the rice fields. Made had explained to me that the Balinese people have a family temple at their home where they make daily offerings. They also have village temples where they make additional offerings. I watched as the women entered, bowed their heads and placed the offering in the temple. Then they left. I respectfully left an offering before continuing on my journey towards the Presidential Palace, the resting ground of the first King of Bali. I stopped and asked directions several times and everyone was kind and helpful. As I entered the palace parking lot, I was told it was closed. This confused me because other people were entering. I asked what day it was open and the guard told me "no." I asked if it was open tomorrow and he said "you, never." I asked a few more questions and realized it was closed to tourists. Ok. On to my next destination, Tirta Empul.

Tirta Empul is a holy spring where water emerges from the land which the Hindu people believe can purify and heal diseases. I watched as the Balinese and tourists alike entered the pools and went through the ritual of dousing themselves in each fountain three times. I noticed the people skipped one of the fountains but I was not certain why. It was interesting and beautiful to watch. Many Balinese asked if I was going to participate. Unfortunately, I forgot a change of clothes. I sat quietly watching and appreciating the ritual.  

My next stop was Gunung Kawi. I saw a temple and turned to enter it. As I stopped to ask a man, he nodded his head and pointed for me to proceed. I walked down the winding steps and found a temple and noticed the steps continued further down. I walked past fountains and was confused because Marie had told me I would walk down past rice terraces. I continued further into the gorge.  I continued down to the bottom and found women bathing in the water. They were all naked and encouraged me to join them. No! I was not ready for that! I smiled and thanked them but declined. As I left, I saw women filling large containers with water and placing them on their heads. They women expertly balanced these as the walked up the steps. Wow! I do not have that kind of grace. I wish I did but, I know better.

I climbed the stairs to my scooter. I had made a wrong turn and I needed to figure out where I had missed the temple and needed to go back or if I had not gone far enough. I decided to continue down the road a little farther. If I was wrong, I would turn around and try again. A little further down the road, I saw the sign for Gunung Kawi. I parked and carried my offering as I headed towards the temple entrance. I stopped to read the sign and was surprised by number 3.

I was glad it wasn't that time of the month! I was more concerned they had to specify for ladies.  Ha ha!  I started the hike down the steps and past the stalls selling water and souvenirs. Past the rice paddies. Down into the gorge. When I reached the river, the jungle was dense and beautiful. The area was beautiful and quiet. Very few tourists were here. It was nice to wander the grounds and enjoy the quiet. I explored the nooks and crannies of the temple. I admit, I felt a little like Indiana Jones. And yes, I was watching for snakes. That is one fear I can not seem to get past. I was so happy Marie had suggested I visit this area. It was what I needed. It was peaceful.  As I crossed the bridge, I saw an old woman wearing a monkey mask. I giggled as she came towards me. This was fantastic! I wanted it. Wouldn't it be an interesting discussion piece? I told her no several times but when the price was down to $5.  I  figured what the hell! I bought it and was sending it home with some other souvenirs. I continued the hike back to the entrance and headed back to Ubud. It was a fun day exploring the area on my own. Tomorrow, I was going with Made on a tour up to the volcano and to hike the rice paddies.