Medellin. Colombia. These two words provoked reactions in people. Many people asked if I had a death wish. It was usually followed by the question "what is wrong with you?" Most people associate Medellin and Colombia with fear, murders and drugs from the 1980's-90's. The days of Pablo Escobar and the Medellin drug cartel. In those days, the city was one of the deadliest in the world. But things changed after the death of Escobar. The city changed it's image and was voted the Most Innovative City of 2012. Travelers and Colombians alike realize Medellin is special and smile when you ask about their favorite city. Medellin is a vibrant city with people that are proud, beautiful, friendly, strong, persistent and the happiest I have met on my travels. They are proud of what the city has become and where it is headed. The only time their demeanor changes is when you ask about Pablo Escobar. The Medellin paisas are adamant that Escobar did nothing for the city and he is not who they are today. The city is full of parks, artwork, free bicycles, restaurants and music in the parks.
This picture symbolizes the city of Medellin and the paisas. What is a paisa? It is someone born in the city of Medellin, or the province of Antioquia, in the country of Colombia. They are proud of their culture and their city. I grew to understand the proud tradition and culture that the Medellin paisas when I took the free Real City Tour (http://www.realcitytours.com/) with Pablo. If you are visiting Medellin this is a must. Do it first, you will not regret it. Pablo is an engaging storyteller and provides an unbiased view of Medellin. He conveys the history of Medellin with warmth, charm and humor.
I met Pablo and the rest of the travelers at the Alpujarra metro stop in the afternoon. We all walked to the Medellin train station for introductions, a group photo and a brief but informative history of Colombia. Pablo is passionate about his city and started off by reminding everyone this was not a Pablo Escobar tour. He explained to us the devastation, death, crime and awful atrocities that Escobar created in the city and the negative impression that Escobar's drug cartel has left on the city and which prevails 20 years after his death. Pablo was adamant that Escobar was nothing but a criminal that killed and bribed people. He warned us others will make him out to be a modern day Robin Hood. However, the homes he built for the poor were in exchange for criminal acts the families were later asked to provide as payback. Nothing is free. Escobar was a viscous, manipulative thug. He caused death and destruction in the city. He did nothing for the city of Medellin. Pablo wanted us to understand from the beginning that Escobar was a negative influence on the city. He realized it is part of the cities history and is happy to answer questions about it but the city is much more than the drug legacy.
Pablo welcomed any questions we had about drugs in Colombia, including Escobar, and he provide a valuable insight. At the time of Escobar's drug cartel, 80% of the cocaine in the USA was through Escobar's Medellin cartel. Today, drugs are still present in Colombia but the drug cartels have been broken up to smaller groups with less of a target on their backs (learned their lesson from Escobar). Most of the drug violence is now in the distribution chain (Mexico) rather than the source. The city of Medellin has become safer, there has been a 90% drop in murders since Escobar's death.
Pablo took us on a 4 hour walk around the city showing us sights and explaining the importance of each location. He started by taking us to the city hall and explaining the artwork and history of corruption within Colombia. From there we moved on to the Plaza Cisneros and the 300 vertical lights.
The area we were standing in had been one of the most dangerous areas of Medellin. But the city government decided to change the areas legacy. A library was built at one end of the square and the Department of Education refurbished the buildings at the other end of the square. The points of light were in the middle. The Medellin city government made a statement that the future of the city was changing and education was important.
As we stood listening to the history, a gentleman working in the building waved to us. He welcomed us to his city and told us to enjoy ourselves. Once again, the friendliness and happiness of the Colombians was demonstrated to us.
We continued our journey through shopping areas and street vendors. Pablo stopped to point out places where legally the people were not allowed to be selling their goods, but the Colombians took liberties when the law was not looking. He also pointed out street food and restaurants that we should visit as we walk through the city.
We stopped at the Veracruz church, one of the oldest religious monuments in Medellin. This is the church of the travelers. It was known for being the church where foreigners were given last rights.
As we stood listening to Pablo give the history, we looked around. Hmmm. What are the women by the telephones doing? Along the opposite side of the church were woman that were obviously working in the oldest profession. Pablo explained this was where men came looking for love. The local priest ignores the prostitution. Pablo explained the Catholic church in the lives of the Colombians. Many Colombians will go to the church to "wash their hands of their sins." He explained that the Colombians may have been asked to kill someone but they would tell the Virgin Mary, they were only going to pull the trigger it was her choice if the bullet would kill the victim. This allowed them to commit murder but wash there sins away as Jesus/God/Virgin Mary willed it to happen. Yes, it is a messed up justification but many people use religion for their personal benefit with no regard to the real message of religion. As Pablo was explaining this, several Colombians came and joined our circle. They would listen and then walk away. Pablo explained that they were not interested in him or what he was telling us. They came to see us and what we were doing. There are few tourists in Colombia and we are an interest to them. Pablo would ask us to get in a circle shoulder to shoulder and stay tightly together. If we left a hole, the Colombians would come, squeeze in and start asking what he was telling us. I laughed, they just wanted to be included in the circle.
We continued walking to Plaza Botero. This was one of my favorites in Medellin.
The plaza is filled with original bronze statues of Fernando Botero. Most people think he sculpted and painted fat people. Actually, his figures are voluminous to represent political criticism or humor, depending on the piece. Botero is considered the most recognized artist from Colombia and Latin America.
Our tour continued to Parque Barrio metro station where Pablo explained the artwork and why Medellin Paisas are so happy. He explained that the years of terror and fear taught them to appreciate life and live every second. He also asked us if we had used the metro system. Most of us had an we all loved it! I was floored when he told is it was 20 years old. Why? The Medellin metro is the cleanest metro I have ever seen. It is cheap ($1/ride), efficient and clean. The paisas are taught from childhood that the metro is special and not to be abused. There is no graffiti. The windows are not scratched. No litter. It does not smell like pee! I was impressed and in awe. The metro was built to transfer people from all parts of the city and improve their lives. He encouraged each of us to ride it and observe the people and the areas. He recommended that we all take the cable car to Parque Avri and stop at the favelas to see the Spanish library (Black Library). In the opposite direction, he recommended the escalators in the Communa 13 neighborhood to see how the poor people live and commute to work. I added these to my must do list for Medellin.
We continued our walk past the Parque Barrio metro and through a lively plaza. Pablo told us to watch as we walked down the alley next to this church.
I giggled as we walked. Wow! For sale along this alley were movies. Any movie you could possibly want to see. DVD of kids movies mixed with action, comedy and pornography movies. I saw a lot of pornography for sale and it included all possible genres. Right next to a Virgin Mary calendar or a book about the Pope. And next to a church!! Afterwards, Pablo explained the corruption extends beyond the government but also within the church. The priests pretend none of this goes on and they go on with their daily lives. He left us to think about corruption and asked I one type is any better than the another? No. It is all corrupt.
We continued on to another plaza and sat as he explained the life going on in the area. A police station on one corner, hookers on another, drugs use on one side of the park. All of this is real life Medellin. But he wanted us to see the diversity in the people and in the plants of the park. It was active and coming alive with music and families strolling in the evening.
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